Chemical peel
Chemical peeling in Estonian beauty salons and cosmetology practices: AHA, BHA, TCA, Cosmelan, Dermamelan. Superficial and medium-depth protocols.
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Chemical exfoliation, or peeling, is a cosmetology facial treatment during which special acids (AHA, BHA, TCA) are applied to the skin, removing layers of surface skin cells in a controlled way. The result is fresher, more even and more radiant skin, with reduced visibility of fine wrinkles, sun damage, acne scars and pigment spots. In Estonia, chemical peels are offered by beauty salons and cosmetology practices in Tallinn, Tartu, Pärnu and other cities. Depending on the type and concentration of the acid used, peels divide into superficial, medium-depth and deep — the last of these are performed only by doctors in a beauty clinic. This guide explains the different types of peel and how to choose a competent salon.
What is chemical peeling and what types are available in Estonia?
Chemical peeling is based on a controlled acid reaction on the surface of the skin. The classes of acid divide up as follows: AHA acids (glycolic acid, lactic acid, mandelic acid) — water-soluble, suitable for superficial treatment; BHA acid (salicylic acid) — oil-soluble, penetrates into the hair follicle, suitable for oily, acne-prone skin; TCA (trichloroacetic acid) — for medium-depth peels, for acne scars, pigment spots and fine wrinkles; phenol — deep peeling, only by doctors in a beauty clinic.
A superficial peel (5–30% glycolic acid, mandelic acid) gives immediate freshness, reduces "dullness" and restores radiance. There is almost no social downtime — makeup can be worn the same day. A course of several sessions (4–6 sessions two weeks apart) gives a cumulative effect. A medium-depth peel (TCA 15–30%) produces visible flaking of the skin for 4–7 days, but delivers a stronger result.
Special combined peels (Cosmelan, Dermamelan for pigment spots; Mesopeel for acne and scars; PRX-T33 for deep hydration without flaking) are increasingly popular on the Estonian market. Salons such as Ilona Ilusalong in Tartu, Esimene Ilustuudio in Tallinn, Naturee Ilustuudio in Tartu, Floris Ilukliinik in Rapla and Ülle Tiidumaa in Tapa offer a variety of peeling protocols.
Chemical peeling prices and how a session unfolds
The price of a chemical peel depends on the type of acid, the concentration and the salon. A superficial peel usually starts from 50–90 € per session, a medium-depth TCA peel from 80–180 €, and special combined protocols (Cosmelan, Dermamelan, Mesopeel) 150–500 €. Course packages (4–6 sessions of superficial peeling) are usually cheaper than single sessions.
A typical visit begins with a consultation, where the cosmetologist assesses the skin type (Fitzpatrick I–VI), the skin concern (acne, pigment spots, ageing, uneven tone) and the patient's wishes. Not all peeling protocols are suitable for sensitive skin or darker skin (Fitzpatrick IV–VI) — where necessary a mandelic acid based (less aggressive) option is chosen.
A session lasts 30–60 minutes. First the skin is cleansed, then the acid is applied evenly with a special brush. The patient feels a slight tingling or burning sensation — a quality cosmetologist watches the timer precisely (1–10 minutes depending on the type of acid) and applies neutralisation if needed (water or sodium bicarbonate). Afterwards it is important to apply a soothing mask and SPF 50 sun protection. After a medium-depth TCA peel the skin may flake for 4–7 days — this is part of the procedure, and you must not pick the peeling layers off yourself.
How to choose a beauty salon that performs chemical peels?
For superficial peels (AHA, BHA acids below 30%) a certified cosmetologist's operating licence is enough. Medium-depth TCA peels (15–30%) and deep phenol peels in Estonia often carry a requirement of medical competence — check that the cosmetologist has completed specific training for the protocol in question. Cosmelan, Dermamelan and similar patented protocols require certification directly from the manufacturer.
The cosmetologist's education and certification are a point in their favour. Favour a cosmetologist who can assess the skin's Fitzpatrick type and do a patch test peel before treating a large area. For darker skin, special protocols must be used, because an aggressive peel can result in hyperpigmentation (paradoxically — the skin becomes even darker).
At the consultation the cosmetologist must assess which peel suits your concern. Superficial mandelic acid suits sensitive skin and mild evening-out, glycolic acid general freshness, BHA acne-prone skin, and TCA more serious cases of scarring and pigment spots. A warning signal is a cosmetologist who immediately offers the "strongest" option without assessing the skin type — this increases the risk of side effects.
Risks, side effects and contraindications
The side effects of chemical peeling divide into the ordinary (a mild burning sensation for 5–30 minutes afterwards, temporary redness, mild swelling, flaking of the skin 1–7 days later) and the more serious. The latter include hyperpigmentation (especially on darker skin — a paradoxical darkening after the peel), hypopigmentation (the appearance of a lighter patch), keloid scars (in susceptible individuals), aggravation of active herpes (especially when peeling around the mouth) and, after deep peels, possible infection or scarring.
Contraindications include pregnancy and breastfeeding (especially with the stronger acids), active skin infections in the treatment area (inflamed acne, herpes, warts), a fresh tan within 2–4 weeks beforehand, isotretinoin treatment within the last 6 months (very important — isotretinoin makes the skin especially reactive to peeling), a tendency towards keloid scars, allergy to the acids used, and autoimmune diseases in an active phase (especially those affecting the skin).
After a chemical peel, avoid sun exposure for 2–4 weeks, along with AHA/BHA products at home, the sauna, hot baths and intense exercise for the first 24–48 hours. Use a sun protection factor of SPF 50 for at least 4 weeks — this is an absolute requirement in order to avoid hyperpigmentation. Moisturise the skin generously with soothing creams (Cicaplast, Cetaphil, La Roche-Posay Toleriane). Picking at the peeling layers must be avoided — let the skin flake on its own.
Chemical peeling in Estonia's more popular cities
In Tallinn, chemical peels are offered by many beauty salons and cosmetology practices, including Esimene Ilustuudio, SIM Ilusalong and other salons in the capital. In the capital all types of peel are available, from superficial AHA protocols through medium-depth TCA peels to patented protocols such as Cosmelan and Dermamelan.
In Tartu, chemical peels are offered by Ilona Ilusalong, Naturee Ilustuudio and other salons. Salons in Pärnu, Narva and the county centres (for example Floris Ilukliinik in Rapla, Ülle Tiidumaa in Tapa) mostly cover superficial AHA and BHA peels. For medium-depth TCA or patented protocols (Cosmelan, Dermamelan for acne scars and melasma) it is worth checking with the specific salon. Since chemical peeling is often done as a course (4–6 sessions), choose a salon according to geographical convenience.
Frequently asked questions
How much does chemical peeling cost in Estonia?
A superficial peel starts from 50–90 € per session, medium-depth TCA from 80–180 €, and special combined protocols (Cosmelan, Dermamelan, Mesopeel) 150–500 €. Course packages (4–6 sessions) are usually cheaper than single sessions. The price depends on the salon and the type of acid.
What is the difference between AHA, BHA and TCA acids?
AHA acids (glycolic acid, lactic acid) are water-soluble, suitable for superficial treatment and general freshness. BHA acid (salicylic acid) is oil-soluble and penetrates into the hair follicle — it suits acne-prone skin. TCA is stronger and suits medium-depth peeling for acne scars, pigment spots and fine wrinkles.
How many sessions will be needed?
Superficial courses usually comprise 4–6 sessions two weeks apart. A medium-depth TCA peel gives a visible result in 1–3 sessions (1–2 months apart). Cosmelan and Dermamelan are single-peel protocols, followed by 6–12 months of home care.
Is chemical peeling painful?
Superficial peels feel like a mild tingling or burning sensation for 5–10 minutes. Medium-depth TCA is more intense — a strong burning sensation for a few minutes, which the cosmetologist neutralises. After the peel the skin is sensitive for 1–2 days. Deep phenol peels are done under anaesthesia in a beauty clinic.
Who is allowed to perform chemical peels?
Superficial AHA/BHA peels (below 30%) may be performed by certified cosmetologists. Medium-depth TCA and patented protocols (Cosmelan, Dermamelan) require specific training. Deep phenol peels may be performed only by doctors in a beauty clinic licensed by the Health Board (Terviseamet).
When will I see the result of a chemical peel?
After a superficial peel the skin is fresher the very same day, but the cumulative effect of the course emerges after 4–6 sessions. Medium-depth TCA gives a visible result once the flaking has finished (5–7 days). Cosmelan and Dermamelan results emerge over the course of 1–3 months.
Can I have a chemical peel while pregnant?
Superficial mandelic acid peels are largely safe during pregnancy, but the stronger acids (TCA, salicylic acid in large amounts) are best avoided. Tell your cosmetologist about your pregnancy — an experienced specialist will choose pregnancy-appropriate protocols or postpone the treatment.
What must you avoid before and after a chemical peel?
Before: no sun exposure for 4 weeks, no AHA/BHA products at home for 1 week. Isotretinoin treatment should be avoided for 6 months beforehand. After: avoid sun exposure for 2–4 weeks and use a sun protection factor of SPF 50 without exception. Moisturise generously and do not pick at the flaking layers. Avoid the sauna and the swimming pool for 24–48 hours.