Chemical peeling — a beginner's guide

Chemical peeling (peeling) is one of Estonia's most classic facial-care methods — it is offered at every beauty clinic. Despite the name, it is not an "aggressive etching" of the skin, but a controlled, layer-by-layer removal that kick-starts the skin's renewal process. In this guide we explain which types exist, when to use each one, and how to choose.

How chemical peeling works

An acid solution (AHA, BHA, TCA or phenol) is applied to the skin, dissolving the "glue" between the cells of the outer skin layer. As a result, dead cells and damage are shed, revealing fresh skin. In response, the body produces new collagen fibres and an elastin network.

The three main levels of peeling

• Light (superficial peel): glycolic acid 20–30%, lactic acid 10%, mandelic acid. Works on the stratum corneum, causes no visible peeling. Effect: skin radiance, smaller pores.
• Medium: TCA 15–20%, Jessner's solution. Works on the whole epidermis. 3–7 days of peeling. Effect: pigmentation, fine lines, post-acne aftermath.
• Deep: TCA 30–50%, phenol. Works on the upper dermis. 7–14 days of recovery. Effect: deep wrinkles, moderate scars. Requires a doctor (dermatologist).

Which peel for which problem

• Dullness and uneven tone: a light glycolic-acid or mandelic peel, a series of 4–6 treatments.
• Acne and post-acne pigmentation: a salicylic-acid (BHA) peel + combinations.
• Hyperpigmentation and age spots: a medium TCA peel + at-home hydroquinone treatment.
• Photoaging, fine lines: medium TCA or Jessner.
• Deep wrinkles: only a deep peel or a combination with microneedling.

Series and results

For most problems an effective result requires 4–6 peels spaced 2–4 weeks apart. A single peel gives a "fresh start" feeling, but structural changes come from a series protocol.

• Maintenance series: 4–6 light peels spaced 3 weeks apart.
• Intensive series: 2–3 medium peels spaced 4 weeks apart.
• One-off: a deep peel with a long-lasting result.

Before the procedure

• 2–4 weeks before: start a skin-preparation routine (retinol cream, vitamin C).
• 2 weeks before: avoid retinoids, hydroquinone and AHAs at home.
• 1 week before: avoid waxing, epilation and intensive sport beforehand.
• On the day of your visit: come without makeup.

After the procedure

• Light peel: 24–48 h of mild redness. Moisturise the skin 2× a day, SPF 50+ for 2 weeks.
• Medium peel: 3–7 days of peeling. Do not peel by hand, wash only with a gentle cleanser. Do not shave, do not do sport (sweat irritates).
• Deep peel: 7–14 days at home with prescription medicines. Regular follow-up visits with the doctor.

Who a peel is not suitable for

• Active herpes, skin infection.
• Recent isotretinoin treatment (Roaccutan) — within the last 6 months.
• Tendency to scarring (keloids).
• Pregnant women.
• Dark skin type (IV–VI) — risk of hyperpigmentation; requires medical assessment.

Risks

• Hyperpigmentation: the most common, especially if the peel is done in summer or without SPF afterwards.
• Hypopigmentation: stronger peels can cause lighter patches.
• Scars: a risk when crusts form and the client starts removing them themselves.

Where to next

• Microneedling and mesotherapy — an alternative to peeling
• Facial-care prices in Estonia 2026
• Acne treatment in Estonia
• All facial-care providers in Estonia
• Beauty clinics in Tallinn — in Tartu
• The full beauty-clinic catalogue

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