Azelaic acid
Also known as: azelaic acid, Skinoren, Finacea
A versatile acid active: it works on acne, rosacea and hyperpigmentation alike, and it suits sensitive skin.
Azelaic acid is an acid found naturally in grains (rye, wheat) that is used in skincare products and in prescription pharmacy treatments. Effect: it reduces inflammation, evens out pigment spots and slows oil production. At Estonian beauty salons and with beauty therapists, azelaic acid is recommended for acne-prone and rosacea-affected skin; the stronger concentrations (15–20%) are available only on a doctor's prescription at a pharmacy.
How does azelaic acid work?
Azelaic acid blocks the multiplication of the bacterium Cutibacterium acnes, reduces inflammation around the follicles and inhibits tyrosinase — the enzyme responsible for producing the pigment melanin. That makes it a good choice for treating acne, post-inflammatory pigment spots and rosacea all in one product.
Unlike AHAs and BHA, azelaic acid does not thin the skin's surface or make it sun-sensitive. It can be added to a morning routine together with vitamin C and SPF; in the evening it combines well with retinol, but start gradually to avoid irritation.
Azelaic acid in Estonia
Lower-concentration (10%) azelaic acid serums are offered by Estonian beauty salons and beauty therapists as part of a treatment course and recommended for home use — priced at €20–40 per pack. Stronger gels at 15–20% (for example Skinoren) are prescription medicines prescribed by a dermatologist at a practice holding a Health Board (Terviseamet) operating licence. In both cases, a visible effect can be expected within 8–12 weeks.
Frequently asked questions
What is azelaic acid?
Azelaic acid is a natural acid found in grains, used to treat acne, rosacea and pigment spots. It reduces inflammation, blocks acne-causing bacteria and slows pigment production.
Is azelaic acid safe in Estonia?
Low-concentration (up to 10%) azelaic acid in over-the-counter cosmetic products is safe for most skin types. Stronger prescription forms (15–20%) require a consultation with a doctor or dermatologist.
Where can I learn more about azelaic acid?
Consult a beauty therapist or dermatologist, who will assess your skin and recommend a suitable concentration. At Estonian beauty salons and beauty clinics you can get a personal skin assessment.
Related pages
This service in Estonia
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