Azelaic acid
A versatile acid active: it works on acne, rosacea and hyperpigmentation alike, and it suits sensitive skin.
Also known as: azelaic acid, Skinoren, Finacea
Azelaic acid is an acid found naturally in grains (rye, wheat) that is used in skincare products and in prescription pharmacy treatments. Effect: it reduces inflammation, evens out pigment spots and slows oil production. At Estonian beauty salons and with beauty therapists, azelaic acid is recommended for acne-prone and rosacea-affected skin; the stronger concentrations (15–20%) are available only on a doctor's prescription at a pharmacy.
How does azelaic acid work?
Azelaic acid blocks the multiplication of the bacterium Cutibacterium acnes, reduces inflammation around the follicles and inhibits tyrosinase — the enzyme responsible for producing the pigment melanin. That makes it a good choice for treating acne, post-inflammatory pigment spots and rosacea all in one product.
Unlike AHAs and BHA, azelaic acid does not thin the skin's surface or make it sun-sensitive. It can be added to a morning routine together with vitamin C and SPF; in the evening it combines well with retinol, but start gradually to avoid irritation.
Azelaic acid in Estonia
Lower-concentration (10%) azelaic acid serums are offered by Estonian beauty salons and beauty therapists as part of a treatment course and recommended for home use — priced at €20–40 per pack. Stronger gels at 15–20% (for example Skinoren) are prescription medicines prescribed by a dermatologist at a practice holding a Health Board (Terviseamet) operating licence. In both cases, a visible effect can be expected within 8–12 weeks.
Frequently asked questions
What is azelaic acid?
Azelaic acid is a natural acid found in grains, used to treat acne, rosacea and pigment spots. It reduces inflammation, blocks acne-causing bacteria and slows pigment production.
Is azelaic acid safe in Estonia?
Low-concentration (up to 10%) azelaic acid in over-the-counter cosmetic products is safe for most skin types. Stronger prescription forms (15–20%) require a consultation with a doctor or dermatologist.
Where can I learn more about azelaic acid?
Consult a beauty therapist or dermatologist, who will assess your skin and recommend a suitable concentration. At Estonian beauty salons and beauty clinics you can get a personal skin assessment.
Related pages
This service in Estonia
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